Bayona

At last, some proper sailing.  As we left Villagarcia marina at midday Thursday there was enough wind that Chris lost another cap as we hauled up the sail with one reef in, although it was soon shaken out and the kite went up.  We were followed out by a couple of other yachts and the three of us hung on to the wind for as long as possible, La premiere being the last to succumb to the engine at half past one.  For half an hour we were cursing our luck (or rather lack of it) when out of nowhere the wind picked back up and we motorsailed for about an hour.  As we passed the last of the channel marker buoys the wind gathered further strength from the northwest and we continued on our way under sail in lovely downwind conditions.

We had decided to go inside the Isla Ons to Islas Cies rather than the outer route because although it required a little more careful pilotage we thought the scenery would be more attractive.  The conditions were great and many yachts were passing that way. I was relieved to be downwind though, the angle of heel of the yachts coming towards us looked distinctly unpleasant!  By 4 o'clock we had turned onto a southerly heading and with gorgeous blue sky and the Islas Cies mountain tops appearing above their misty cloak we broad reached down the coast, with perhaps a little too much sail up, at seven to eight knots. 

Our anchorage plan was foiled by the fact that many other yachts had formed the same plan and the bay providing the best shelter was chock a block with boats.  Zephyrus, who had left about an hour before us had abandoned an attempt to anchor there and headed to a bay on the northwest of the Vigo river mouth.  A radio call from Ian persuaded us to go to the same place and as we headed northwest into the gusting force seven wind we hoped the bay was well sheltered.   It was, and much to Chris' amusement we anchored beside a Portuguese yacht on which three young (twenty-ish) women were dancing naked!  A glance at the pilot explained that the beach here was "popular with naturists."  That explains that!  We were relieved of the task of cooking supper by an invite to share a curry on Zephyrus, which we accepted gladly, and thoroughly enjoyed!

Much as we wanted to stay there the following day, the weather forecast was not so good, promising an onshore force six, and we had to seek shelter elsewhere.  We considered a different anchorage off Islas Cies but it offered little protection from the swell and so we headed towards Bayona, only about ten miles away.  The wind was south-westerly but rather than motor into the wind and waves, we decided it would be more comfortable to beat to windward.  We had planned to go outside a series of rocky islets outside Bayona and follow the main channel into the bay, but as we approached it became clear that it would be better to take the Canal de la Porte, between the headland and a large rock.  I was on the helm while Chris pulled the bits of rope, the main was reefed and the genoa a quarter of the way in yet we were still reaching six and a half knots to windward in a force six.  I was only a little worried about the fact that there is a 0.9m patch in the middle of the Canal, and I'm sure I was shivering because of the wind!  It was high tide though and the lowest I saw on the depth gauge was 7 metres.  Three hours after weighing anchor we were lowering it again in the bay outside Bayona.

We decided to stay on anchor for one night then head into the marina the following morning to top up with water and electricity, update the website and wash off and pack away the dinghy.  The plan then was to head for Portugal, where the next few stops would all be in marinas and the dinghy wouldn't be needed.  Now, how does the saying go? "All the best laid plans never go to waste."  Rubbish!  We did go into the marina, and followed the instructions in the pilot to moor alongside the fuel berth, find a port official to allocate a space and then berth, bows to, using the fore and aft lines provided.  We got as far as the third step but to our amazement, in the time it took us to leave the fuel berth someone had nipped into our allotted berth and there were none left!  Huh!  In a foul temper we motored back to the anchorage we had left less than an hour before and dropped the hook again. 

As for the plans to go to Portugal, well!  One week later and we were still anchored off Bayona, having sat through several days of near gale force winds from the south.  At least Bayona is a civilized place to be and with Zephyrus, Lycka and Noa, another German yacht with whose crew, Walter and Rita, we had become acquaintanced in Muros, we managed to keep ourselves entertained, either in the Tapas bars or playing board games such as "Ratrace".  Rather ironic since all of us have opted out of it!  The main problem with this weather, as far as I can see, is that it has caused a bit of a log-jam here in Bayona and quite a number of yachts are all waiting for the weather to turn in order to head south.  The Portuguese marinas are going to be full to bursting!  Chris describes the combination of so many nationalities as a General Assembly of the United Nations!  There are yachts from Britain, Sweden, USA, Ireland, Holland, Germany, Denmark, Norway, France, Spain, Portugal, Canada. . . . . .