Estepona, from one continent to another

We could not leave Ceuta until after 1000 because that is when the Navtex receives the weather forecast.  We made the boat shipshape, bought bread and cakes for the journey and Chris went to pay the dues.  We were a bit dubious about a rather large black cloud which seemed to be developing but several other boats were leaving and the forecast was OK for the day but due to deteriorate overnight, with high winds expected.  The voyage was to be approximately 32 nautical miles which should take us about 6 hours at an average of 5 knots.  One of the advantages of being in the Med is that once you are past Gibraltar and along the coast you have little to do in the way of tide calculations.  Today though, we had to cross a whole Sea, from one continent to another and negotiate the unusual currents of the Straits once more.  

We finally cast off at 1100 and got the mainsail up in the outer harbour.  With the chug of the engine, Giblet knew she was in for another treat and took the easy option of curling up in the forecabin.  Once out of the protection of the harbour walls we realised the wind was nearly on the nose, and a choppy sea led us to put a reef in almost straight away.  We kept the engine on but sailed too, close hauled on starboard tack.  We were treated to a dolphin display at midday, shortly followed by a torrential rain shower.  Chris used ‘putting the radar on’ as an excuse to go below for shelter and left me to marvel at the change in the water.  The wind died almost completely and the metallic grey sea moved like a bubbling cauldron of ball-bearings.  Despite our course to Estepona being 016 degrees, our heading was 330 degrees and bizarrely Gibraltar was dead ahead as we crabbed along to offset the current.

Just as we were eating lunch Chris, who had been keeping a watchful eye on the weather, decided a second reef was called for.  Our bowls of pasta were returned to the galley and we set about reducing the canvas.  No sooner had we completed the task than some gusty winds began accompanied by further showers!  We turned off the engine and sailed for a full ten minutes until the wind vanished once more and we had to start it up again.  Quite what the weather was up to I’m not sure, but we continued for another hour in a windless drizzle.  An Amel Super Maramu (53 foot long we think) overtook us, having left Ceuta shortly after we had.  With no wind we did not stand a chance of keeping ahead!

By about 1600 the wind had picked up a bit, this time from the southwest and with the current also helping we motor sailed at a speed of 7.2 knots!  That decided it, the engine went off for almost the remainder of the journey (we like to use it when mooring up!) and we did our first proper stint of sailing in 2001.  Giblet was aware something had changed and came out into the cockpit to investigate.  She wouldn’t settle though, it was all too interesting for a 9-month-old cat.  She attempted to go forward but we both acted as guards to prevent her and eventually, much to our relief, she went back down below.  We hadn’t bothered to shake out the reefs, especially as the weather was being so unpredictable, but we unfurled the full genoa and kept the Amel in sight.  It was also going to Estepona and as we turned into the marina, we saw it moored alongside the arrival pontoon and, with the sails safely away and the engine back on, we pulled in ahead of it and their crew kindly took our lines.   

The marina office in Estepona looks like a wedding cake.  It is octagonal, with pale blue walls and white edges, like piped icing.  At night it is even lit up with white fairy lights!  Their system seems very efficient, computerised and with a welcoming booklet full of useful information.  We were allocated a berth and a marinero was there to help with the lines as we moored, bows to.  It was quite a tight fit, but we managed.  Giblet could not believe the exploring opportunities that opened up before her.  She was able to step from our boat to our neighbours and so on, virtually all the way along the pontoon.  A number of times she has simple vanished into the depths of other boats, but so far, touch wood, she has always, eventually, come out again!

The sight of a well-stocked chandlery wowed us.  Later we found out it is run by English owners.  I imagine they came down this way some years ago and found such a huge gap in the market that they promptly set up shop.  So few of the places we have stopped on the way have had decent supplies.  Despite the temptation, we did not spend too much money and really planned to stop only for a couple of nights.  The forecast wind, however, developed and we opted to stay on Wednesday too.  This decision provided me with the excuse to drag Chris to a local bar where they had a large TV screen to watch England v Spain in a friendly football match.  It seemed odd to be among so many English people.  The only Spaniard left the excited hoards somewhere in the middle of the match, but you could hardly blame him.  We won 3-0!

We headed straight back to La Premiere to prepare for an early start, as we had all the planning prepared to move on to Benalmadena.  Thursday didn’t exactly dawn though, it more drizzled in with grey skies and a gusty wind.  Friday fared no better, if anything it was worse.  We had to go out for supplies though and got totally drenched.  The old town of Estepona is actually quite pretty, with whitewashed houses and flowers cascading over balconies.  It is clearly aiming its economy around tourism, although the fishing industry, which was once the heart of the community, still appears to be quite strong.  The surrounding hotels and apartment buildings are not too high-rise and have not encroached on the original centre.  

The forecast was not due to improve until Sunday, so our next hop, to Benalmadena just northeast of Fuengirola but southwest of Malaga, will remain on hold.