A Swift Stint In Stintino

We cast off our berth in Alghero so early that the only other people about were the fishermen. We were determined to make the most of the forecast for southerly winds and at just gone 7.30 we were motoring out into a flat calm bay. The same headland offered no surprises today and we "oooohed and aaaaahhhhed" at the amazing cliffs and the lighthouse perched on top. Birds swooped around and we could see caves and tunnels through the rocks. A rather large Amel yacht overtook us and shortly afterwards we heard a great WHOOSH as a low flying jet-plane came past! By this time we had the jib out to help the motor and we were making about 5.8 knots.

As we chugged along the coastline we double-checked our pilotage for the Fornelli Passage. On the northeast corner of Sardinia is a group of islands, the largest of which, Asinara, was once a prison island but is now a nature reserve. To sail right round this would be an extra twenty or so miles but in daylight there is a narrow but safe passage between Asinara and Piana called the Fornelli passage. Depths are reported to be as little as 3 meters in places in the channel, less either side, and if it had not been flat calm we probably would not have gone through! As it turned out we had perfect conditions; blue sky, light breeze, flat calm. The water was so clear you could see the rocks and sand beneath and as we approached on the given heading we were able to make out the leading lines (2 concrete pillars which you have to keep in line to be sure you are on track.) The depths dropped away rapidly, 50 metres, 40, 18, 10, 8, 5! The scariest thing was looking down over the bow because you cannot tell how far down the rocks are, but you can see them clearly. The lowest depth we recorded was just over 3 metres so with our 1.8 draught we were perfectly fine.

We made our way in the now northwest wind. Quite how the land affects the wind here seems beyond our comprehension. Whatever, it always seems to bend round in unexpected directions! There were a number of boats on anchor around the islands, enjoying lunch in beautiful surroundings. We continued past, to get settled in Stintino, which, according to our pilot has good anchorage outside the marina but within the breakwater. As we headed in, we could see clouds of dust and sand being raised by diggers, constructing an extension to the facilities. We circled about, no other yachts at anchor and dropped the hook. It didn't hold and to make matters worse the depth alarm suddenly bleeped and read 1.6 metres! Was there a rock or something under us? Put off by the noise of the construction work we thought perhaps we'd go back to Piana where we'd seen the other boats at anchor, only a couple of miles back. Off we went and chose a lovely turquoise patch to anchor and at last we settled down for lunch.

Chris went in for a swim and checked the log under the boat. It seemed fine. Most of the other boats started to head home and we were aware that nice as it was, our spot was not really very sheltered and therefore not so good for an overnight stay. After some pondering and re-reading of the pilot there was little else to do than head back to Stintino. The wind had now veered to the northeast and we were relieved to see two yachts successfully anchored in the harbour. Why we hadn't had a second attempt earlier I'm not altogether sure. We were probably too easily tempted back to the beauty of the anchorage around Piana. We successfully anchored inside the breakwater and for the second time that day got ourselves shipshape and ate some dinner!

The wind continued to build overnight. We were vaguely aware of it because Charlie was doing a grand job keeping the batteries topped up! Chris ventured up in the early hours to let out a little more warp in addition to our 30 metres of chain but we slept OK. In the morning both the other yachts left, into the most horrible seas. The white horses were careering across the entrance into the harbour and we were thankful that the wind had a substantial amount of north in its direction because the swell was not getting in! We listened to the forecasts and waited for the Navtex to tell us what to expect. It was not good news and we finally decided that evening to go into the marina. There wasn't much space so they put us alongside the crane where they hoist the boats in and out.

After breakfast the following morning we were asked to move to a space that had become vacant. We were amazed that people were, voluntarily, heading out into the wind and waves! For the third time we settled down into our new slot in Stintino! It was a good spot and the office girl fell in love with Giblet! It was quite a pretty little town, a slightly developed fishing village now turning towards tourism for its main income. Many of the traditional, lateen sail boats were moored there and apparently the club hosts a local regatta specifically for them. We are yet to see one under sail, but the rig certainly looks interesting.

We stayed a few nights, enjoying the luxury of showers on land and being able to wait for a good forecast. The problem was, the forecasts were not good but the weather seemed fine and Saturday and Sunday we missed perfectly good sailing conditions because the predictions were not very good. Ian and Jo turned up on Sunday afternoon, though not in Zephyrus but by car, which they had hired for a few days before their flight, back to Blighty. Chris got the engine oil changed and we further enjoyed our encounters with the locals in the shops, having to go to individual premises for meat and veg. 
Having stayed too long, by our standards, we decided to leave Monday morning with a better forecast!