Gunkholing in the Maddalenas

We assume Rod (Pilot Book Author) Heilkell's term "gunkholing" means pottering around anchorages and since leaving Bonifacio again, that is basically all we've been up to. We finally left the Calanque on the 8th August, expecting lighter winds but maybe a still swell ridden sea. As we turned around the cliffs we were surprised to find a virtually smooth sea! The light breeze allowed us to hoist the main, unfurl the jib and sail, a lovely beam reach, with no engine! We enjoyed an hour of this, steadily catching Zephyrus who had set out a little earlier than us, but as soon as we got close they resorted to the engine again and pulled away. The wind dropped off and the main started to flog so we gathered in the canvas and motored again.

We anchored for lunch in Cala Villamarina (the cala with the derelict quarry and half finished sculpture) before venturing all the way back to Porto Palma. As we turned into the bay we could not believe our eyes. The sheer number of yachts in the anchorage had at least trebled since our last stopover and we were a little unsure whether we'd find a good spot. In fact, as we cautiously nosed our way in we realised that many of the boats had not dared to go into the lovely sheltered corner behind the shoal of rocks and we managed to drop our hook in a good spot. The Zephs joined us a while later, having taken some time to explore ashore at Villamarina.

We stayed a couple of nights, Chris cleaned our prop of "cling-ons" but thankfully found our hull still clear of serious crustaceans. The forecast predicted some more strong wind so we decided to try for a space at Cannigione marina. As we motored down we realised what a difference a clean prop makes to our speed. We had no luck in the marina, so we anchored just within the protection of the mole. The down side to our spot was the constant to and fro' of boats. A second anchor was laid and we prepared ourselves for a long night. In fact, the worst problems were not the wind, (which didn't really blow like last time!) but other people not paying enough attention to their anchoring and dragging onto us! One motor yacht, two sailing yachts and a power boat all had close encounters, the last purely because they had not thought about the wind direction while waiting for their berth in the marina and just drifted side on to our pulpit. Chris had to physically push them off! Mad!!!

Having survived a couple more nights there we gathered in the 2nd anchor and contemplated going to a cala at the north of the Baie di Arzachena, but the Zephs, who had tried and failed to get into the marina at Maddalena radioed to say the holding was poor and they returned to Cannigione. We watched a seaplane collecting water for a nearby scrub fire, and I couldn't help but duck as he flew just over our mast! That evening, another game of Bridge was proposed and after 4 hours Chris and Jo finally beat Ian and me by a huge points margin. We were guilty of over bidding, I think, but it was the best game we've had so far.

On Tuesday 14th we left Cannigione, bound for a cala on the north east of Maddalena called Spalmatore. The sea state was supposed to be smooth, and indeed it probably was. The forecasts however, do not take into account the swell caused by a continuous flow of motorboat wake and as we headed north, round the east side of Caprera we were rocked and rolled. It was more uncomfortable than a steady ocean swell because there was no regularity. At one point we had a motorboat either side of us, zooming off and trapping us between two ferocious stern waves. We were shoved quite violently sideways and I wrenched my back as we lurched. (I must be getting old, complaining of a bad back!) Eventually, as we motored past the favourite anchorages of the Cervo set the number of "stinkers" dwindled and the sea became smoother. Our destination, Spalmatore, was not as busy as we had thought it might be and we were transfixed by the melting rock effect at the entrance to the bay. The water was crystal clear and I could see the fish swimming around and our anchor chain trailing off in front. We spotted some "Maddalena Ormagatori" in a rib, approaching the boats in the anchorage so we hid below, determined not to pay just for anchoring in a pretty and popular place. The boat next door had a bit of a row with them and upped anchor and left. As far as we know the ormagatori left us alone and we got away with it! If some sort of service was provided, like buoys, rubbish collection and shower facilities we wouldn't complain about paying, but to be charged around £10 a night just to drop a hook is a bit barmy in our opinion.

The Archipelago consists of several island groups and so far we had only explored the southern set. A little further north into the Bonifacio Straits are three more islands with the rather exotic names of Razzoli, Budelli and Santa Maria. Between these three is a shallow rocky passage called "Passo Secca di Morto" - Deadman's Reef Passage - and it leads to a place called Pink Beach. I had to say I'd been there; the name sounds so fantastic so the next day we set off from Spalmatore to investigate. Pink beach turned out to be white, (although Chris persuaded his colour blind eyes it was pink) and the passage was crammed full with boats on, yes, mooring buoys! Perhaps the authorities are making an effort in the most popular places after all! We didn't stop, instead we headed on back to Corsica.

At midday we got the sails out and the engine was turned off and for only the 2nd time in a week we managed to sail for just over an hour. Our chosen anchorage for the night was Rondinara, on the south east of Corsica. It was a brilliant anchorage, again fantastically clear water but so busy! We got ourselves safely tucked round into the north end and I enjoyed a warm swim. Over eighty boats stayed the night. We had heard that another mistral (big north-westerly wind) could be on the way by Saturday and so we thought it would be prudent (A Gordon Brownism, I know) to get into Porto Vechio marina a few days early to get a berth.